Gastronomy

HIGH CUISINE IN MINIATURE

Pintxos in Donostia-San Sebastian

09/04/2008

There is always somewhere in Donostia-San Sebastian where you can eat a pintxo and drink a Rioja wine at any time.

Eating pintxos is usually accompanied by "poteo" or bar hopping, which consists of drinking wine, cider or zuritos (small glasses of beer) while standing in the company of friends and moving from one establishment to the next.

Casco Viejo

The temple of pintxos, both for the locals and for the tourists that walk through its streets letting themselves be seduced by the dozens of varieties of pintxos that the bars offer on their counters. Many of the bars do not need any other decoration other than the trays full of food, which are constantly replenished. The midday walk amongst its narrow streets, visiting the bars, is a must. It must be done unhurriedly, with no pre-established itineraries, letting oneself be carried away by the murmuring or by the aroma coming from a tavern; but one has to be careful, the txakoli or the cider that must accompany each pintxo can give you a surprise.

Among the many possible places, it is worth stopping at the Martínez, with its seafood pintxos; the Txepetxa, the realm of anchovies; the Tamboril with its mushrooms; the Borda-Berri for its hot foie gras on toast; and La Cepa, one of the best bars in the old part. Their Jabugo hams are exceptional.

Ondarreta

Opposite the beach bearing the same name, on the left side of the bay, is Ondarreta, one of the city's most exclusive suburbs. The pintxo tradition came all the way here, in bars like Intxausti, with a beautiful Art Decó ambience and an elaborate offer of pintxos prepared with fish and poultry. Another bar to visit is Juan Mari Humada, located on the way to the Comb of the Winds sculpture.

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